I couldn't resist this afternoon dropping my daughter at the babysitter and getting out in the water, to catch some of this unseasoned South swell hitting the Hawaiian islands. I went to Toes, away from the crowd, there were only about 10 people out there. It was smaller than elsewhere, but the waves were so beautiful, almost glassy (with just a light offshore wind).
And the best of all was the encounter with my favorite animal: a (monk) seal !
I was waiting for a wave, when I heard a noise like somebody was expelling water from his nose. I turned and was face to face with a monk seal, only 2 meters from me ! He swam close to me for a minute or so, and finally dove and disappeared.
I could not believe it ! Toes is wonderful, a few years ago I had windsurfed with whales...
I'm stoked. Hallelujah !